Surfboarding

Wearing a whole black wet suit, Surfboard in hand, There he stands, in the sand. Knee-deep in water, He sets the board down, Mounts it, and paddles hard. Against the tumultuous waves, he paddles, now Beyond the breakers. Pausing to rest He turns around Waiting, amid the swells. Making haste now, He's on top of the crest Rising, like a pro. All the way in The wave takes him. Happy, he starts again.