A short good-news, bad-news fish story

The good news is that fresh fish is being demanded in more and more restaurants across the country. The bad news is that many restaurants don't handle or cook it properly. And much of it is wasted.

The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., is doing something about this kitchen dilemma. It has added a seven-day course in fish cookery.

``Good cooking is good cooking,'' says Richard Czack, head of the Educational Department, ``but the delicacy of fresh fish and seafoods warrants special attention.''

Ronald Henin, who is teaching the class along with Lyde Buchtenkirch, adds, ``Times have changed, and we are now trying to give cooks an awareness that they cannot just use the center cut but also use the tail, belly, and necks for different purposes.

``We teach our students to save the best part of the product for a dish that will bring maximum money, and to use the trimmings to make seafood sausages, mousse, forcemeat, terrines, and quenelles.''

The Culinary Institute of America has been a leading educator of food-service professionals since 1946.

It offers both a 21-month training program and continuing education courses in cooking, baking, and dining-room procedures.