Wraparound fat for food

Caul fat - two words you may have forgotten, if you ever knew at all. They may be worth remembering according to Paula Wolfert, cooking teacher and food writer.

''Everything is going to be cooked with caul fat next year. Everything - meat , poultry, even fish. It's going to be the thing,'' said Ms. Wolfert with great enthusiasm as she wrapped a large piece of salmon in caul and baked it at a recent cooking demonstration.

Caul fat is a large, lacy sheet of marbled fat that turns crisp when it is fried but is moist and almost melts when baked.

Pork and lamb caul fat are most often used. Wrapped around a lean piece of meat, poultry, or fish, it completely melts away when cooked and adds both flavor and moisture to the dish. It also keeps stuffings and ground meat or fish intact.

Although the cost is low, caul fat is difficult to find in supermarkets but is available in Chinese, French, and Italian meat markets.

Caul fat freezes well and can usually be ordered from a butcher in advance.