UNOFFICIAL SOUTH AFRICA

The official Tourist Board boasts that South Africa is a ``world in one country.'' But the visitor may see only one side. Here are some suggestions for a more balanced view: Warts-and-all Soweto tour

If you stay at Johannesburg's Carlton Hotel, be sure to take in the bus-tour of Soweto. Official attempts to ensure a ``sanitized'' tour have failed and black tour guides give a warts-and-all view of the country's biggest ``city.''

Ask a black taxi-driver to take you to Godfrey Moloi's Blue Fountain - a delightful, warm Soweto night spot.

Be sure to take in the latest black production at the Market Theater in Johannesburg, and round off the evening with a visit to the multi-racial Kippies jazz club in the same complex.

South Africa's `Berlin Wall'

On your return journey from the famous Kruger Park wildlife reserve, visit the electric fence at the Komatipoort border between South Africa and Mozambique - South Africa's equivalent of the Berlin Wall - and see the sprawling refugee camps of Mozambicans looking for a better life in ``racist'' South Africa.

Visit the birthplace of Nelson Mandela in the tiny village of Qunu near the Transkeian capital of Umtata. See where he grew up in nearby Mqekezweni, and visit the trading store that his ex-wife, Eveline, runs in the hamlet of Cofimvaba, about two hours' drive away.