It's All in a Sandwich

As anyone who craves enchiladas, curries, or sushi knows, food bridges cultures. To appreciate the flavors devised elsewhere is to appreciate in a small way, at least, those who came up with them.

Consider Germans' passion for a Turkish sandwich called doner kebab - an ungainly mass of vegetables, seasonings, and specially roasted beef stuffed into a large triangle of pita bread. The doner has become the lunch of choice in Germany, far surpassing those other imports, American Big Macs and Whoppers.

Recalling Germany's past troubles in assimilating its Turkish immigrants, the doner's union with the national palate is a diplomatic and social triumph, as well as a gustatory one.