There’s plenty of palate-pleasing fusion in the culinary universe. It can even meld cultures. Food can still be a defender of identity, though. That’s the case in embattled Ukraine. 

Take borsch. Ukrainians pointedly leave off the T, which Russian transliterations include. Their beet-based staple comes in far more vibrant forms (and colors) than you’d think, Howard LaFranchi reports today. 

“Food is ... a basic part of how people show their care towards their loved ones,” a source tells Howard. The Soviet era buried local cultural traditions, she says. The current war is a burning reminder. The chefs pushing back are stirring up dignity.