For a glimpse inside the real Los Angeles, hop on the surreally clean underground metro system – which many car-loving Angelenos ride for the sheer quixotic experience of a subway system in the freeway capital of the world – and glide through station after station designed and decorated by local artists. These venues house site-specific creations that tell about the cultural and political history of each neighborhood. Get off at Union Station, a magnificent Art Deco masterpiece of a well-preserved period train station, and then hop across to Olvera Street and Pueblo de Los Angeles, the birthplace of the city. Sure, it’s low-scale touristy, but it also retains much historic charm, with great Mexican food and music.